My Tuning Method Overview

I want to preface this by saying I hope this helps some people tuning in the future and is by no way me saying my way is the only way, but hopefully opening some eyes to the truths of tuning a bow properly that are commonly misunderstood or misconceived.

First when it comes to the initial setup. With all the technology out there today it can be very easy to quite literally mess your way out of a tune with (set technology, deadlock, etc etc) so I want to start by saying my process is as follows regardless of the strings I use, even though I prefer to use Unbound Archery strings from Nick Dawa. Set the bow to manufacturer spec and set the nocking point through the center of the berger hole (not the top third or bottom third, center of shaft through center of berger), and set center shot on the rest to manufacturer spec (13/16, or 7/8 in most cases) from there check timing and get that dead set as needed. Then check cam lean, then I launch a bare shaft through the paper at 3 yards to start. Rotating the arrow to multiple nock positions and tuning to the best tear. This is just to gauge if I need to shim or yoke tune depending on the setup or bow manufacturer. Then tune out any vertical tear first, if you rotated the nock and tuned to the best tear this should be a minimal adjustment if any at all. Depending on the lateral tear I will either shim at this point or if the tear is good I will move back to 9 yards, at 9 yards with a bare shaft you should see any slight inconsistencies coming out in your form these adjustments are easily compensated with a slight rest adjustment or playing with form a little bit. Then Final Step is 15 yards and repeat the steps from the 9 yard mark. ( obviously, it is a little more in-depth than this in some situations, as previously mentioned this is a brief overview as a guideline not an exact).

Once I am getting perfect bare shaft flight through the paper at 3-9-15 yards I screw a broadhead on and grab some field tips and go to 60 yards (start up close first if your not sure with your tape) (Remember through this whole process I have left my set technology, or any other tuning aiders alone, and tuned the bow as if it didn't have them on it for the sole fact of keeping everything running down the center of the bow for visual aesthetics and keeping within manufacturer spec, in many cases, you can achieve a good tear outside of spec but I prefer to give myself and my customers a good tune and a visually pleasing look to their finished product. ) Once I am at 60 yards I will use any tuning aiders ( SET, deadlock, yokes) I have to adjust my broadhead impact If there is any issues. 99% of the time if you are getting a perfect bullet hole through the paper at 15 yards you are gonna be good to go without any adjustments. If you fall into that 1% where it didn't land with the family, then you will most likely have at most 1/16th adjustment or a slight, set/deadlock adjustment to get everything to play nice. Occasionally, you will need to nock tune your arrow at distance to get broadheads to play, due to inconsistencies in the shaft itself.

With this method, I have been tuning bows with fantastic results and repeatable results. I am not in any way shape or form saying this is the only way to skin a cat we can get to the same point multiple different ways. but this is the way that works great for me, especially for the sake of your time. Some people preach that paper tune is just a starting point and id argue that it is and it isn't, if you are only launching fletched shafts or bare shafts through the paper at 3-9 feet instead of 3-9-15 yards then yes it is a starting point but like I mentioned 99% of the time if you are sending them at 3-9-15 yards you are going to be theoretically dead on out to 60+ with your broadheads with very minor adjustments needed from that point forward.

When seeking advice on tuning questions in various online platforms such as forums and social media, it is common for responses to be varied and sometimes conflicting. My recommendation, though it may not always be heeded, is to establish a relationship with a reliable bow technician. By consulting with a professional, you can benefit from their expertise and personalized guidance tailored to your specific needs.

Diagnosing tuning issues involves considering numerous factors, many of which may not be adequately addressed in online discussions. Without a comprehensive understanding of your setup, equipment, and shooting style, it can be challenging to pinpoint the root cause of tuning problems. Relying solely on generalized advice from online sources may lead to a trial-and-error approach that could result in unsatisfactory outcomes and further frustration.

Therefore, investing time and effort in establishing a rapport with a trusted bow technician can significantly streamline the tuning process. Their hands-on assessment and targeted recommendations can save you from unnecessary adjustments and potential setbacks.

Ultimately, seeking professional guidance can lead to a more efficient and rewarding tuning experience, ensuring that you achieve optimal performance and satisfaction with your bow setup.

With that being said, I hope some people get some value out of this post, and no I am not going to argue with you in the comments about how my way is right and you are wrong. because honestly tune it how you want, and secondly many other factors can come into play that is not discussed in this post ( as I mentioned this is an overview.)

Furthermore, if anyone has any questions I would be more than happy to help you with your setup if I can over the phone, or if you feel more comfortable sending it to me you are welcome to do that too. With that happy hunting and shoot straight.

Bergy Bowsmith